A study that shows the declining demand of tuxedo rentals was reported last week, confirming the steady disappearance of innovation and relevance of the men’s formal wear category. Many reasons have been cited as to why tuxedos have grown unfashionable since the 2000 millennium celebration when they were at an all-time high. Now, at the worst time in their history, so-called experts have no way to reverse the damage, as the traditional tuxedo struggles for survival.
For a decade I wrote a daily newsletter, E-Formal News. In that time we worked with manufacturers, trying to understand them and provide real-time information and solutions for retailers. Some manufacturers were cooperative but most did not like the fact they were being watched. Some that had the least to offer the industry were difficult, to put it kindly, because they knew their lack of innovation and contribution would be exposed. We could go on with this lament for days but will spare you the details and are always willing to share information or answer any questions you may privately.
Fast forward to today’s declining demand for tuxedo rentals; eWN is monitoring several stories surrounding the decline including the assertions that Men’s Wearhouse is at the heart of the trouble. The men’s retailer came into the business in a big way post-2000 and has managed to reshape the way tuxedo rentals are approached, limiting styles, innovation and creating a “vanilla” corporate environment that enables most customers to replicate the formal look of a tuxedo with a basic black suit look.
The idea was discussed with VP Publisher of Bridal Guide Magazine, Jim Duhe. For many years, Duhe and Bridal Guide were supporters and sponsors of the men’s formal wear category providing editorial, financial help and advice to manufacturers and specialists. “I’ve always had an affinity for the tuxedo; its elegance and appropriateness in the setting where a beautiful women on the most important day of her life stands next to her man and he is dressed the part to make her shine even more,” feels Duhe.
The southern born Romantic manages to properly interject emotion into the business of tuxedos but realizes something has gone terribly wrong. “I just don’t understand where these people are coming from anymore. Sometimes -- late at night -- when I have nothing better to do -- I wonder why most bridal editors don't understand the men's formal wear category. I also wonder why they don't have a better comprehension of their own role in defining the category for bridal market customers. While there may be no easy answer to these late night questions, I think that it boils down to guts.
Editors can say that most men don't know how to dress -- and they would be right. They can say that men don't know anything about formal wear -- and -- again they would be right. Many men will believe whatever the editors tell them because their knowledge base is very limited. An editor doesn't need guts, or talent, or even authority to make statements to a heterosexual male audience. Few men will challenge editorial authority. Editors can tell men it's OK to wear a business suit or jeans or flip flops on their wedding day and…. many men will believe what the editor says because many men just don't know or just don't care. Those who do care won't listen to the editors but most men will take the easy way out.
By comparison, if an editor advised a women that wearing a strapless dress and exposing cleavage in a church is tasteless, some woman might believe the editor -- many are more likely to say "f**k you -- what do you know." Strapless dresses are a trend that editors don't have the guts to challenge. If an editor tells a woman that wearing a formal gown trimmed with sequins and crystals before 6PM is tasteless, some women might believe the editor -- most will turn around and say "f**k you what do you know." Women won't be "told" by bridal editors that satin, sequins, and crystal in daylight are worn by the gals in the trailer park. Women want the glamour of traditional wedding attire and won't compromise. Bridal editors don't have the guts to challenge the female bridal apparel trends.
In other words, not one editor has the guts to challenge what women think about bridal fashion because women understand fashion. However, editors know that the majority of men won't challenge any statement that might be made about what men should wear. Editors are allowed to think that they are superior based upon their own personal taste rather than any sense of tradition or what is right or wrong. It's a great position to be a men's formal wear bridal editor. You can't make a mistake.
Even here at Bridal Guide, we maintained strong support for the men's formal wear category because I understand it -- not because the editors personally know the category. I grew up wearing formal wear. I attended junior cotillions when I was 13. When I was 16, I attending cotillions along the Natchez Trace and Carnival Balls in New Orleans. I understand Morning Coats, Strollers, and Cut Away Coats because that's what people wore when attending morning weddings in the Deep South.
Based upon the statements offered by the editors at Brides, the Knot, and The New York Times, they don't even have a passing understanding of men's formal attire for day time weddings. They aren't even vaguely familiar with Black Tie Invited. In short, these people are NOT experts. Regardless, editors go completely unchallenged when they make erroneous statements about men's formal wear. They are allowed to be wrong by the few people who actually are experts in the category.
The guys who design formal wear should know at least as much about the category as I know. The guys who earn a living from renting tuxedos should know a lot more than I know. Regardless, not one person in the business is willing to challenge the bridal editors. None of these guys owe anything to me but they owe it to themselves to ask why gutless editors are allowed to destroy their businesses. Maybe you can explain why not one person in the tuxedo business is willing to challenge a bridal editor regarding proper formal attire for men? Pendly can't. The IFA can't. After Six hasn't. Lord West hasn't since Weinstein left. Now that Bob Bennett is gone -- well, you know the story.
The real problem is that all of these guys see themselves as purveyors of used suits rather than fashion experts. Is it any wonder that the business is eroding? There is no one to promote it. There is no one to defend it.” said Duhe in an interview last week after being quoted in the declining demand story.
Last week’s story involving the probable demise of tuxedo rentals, as we know them, sparked replies on Twitter. Le S. Richardson (LadyLeRich), a fashion expert and business owner from Houston, TX and New York, offered her help. Le informed us about her friend, Janelle Monáe saying, “ She wears a tux or tux pants in every performance! She's the next It Girl! Prince asked her to perform for his lifetime achievement award,” offering several suggestions and promising to “make it happen”.
The video was sent to several key people in the tuxedo and advertising business. Duhe responded by saying, “I think that this video is great. There are MANY clips that show tuxedos in a positive way -- so many, in fact, that I've lost track of them. The new TRUE BLOOD series on HBO included a vampire wearing a fantastic dinner jacket recently. Vampires are HOT in the media. It isn't a stretch to believe that there could/should be a terrific promotional campaign built around TRUE BLOOD.”
One manufacturer did try to capitalize on the current popularity of vampires but the efforts were nullified because they lost half of their advertising budget when a joint venture between Black Gold and FLOW was announced. Jean Yves, the most active marketer in the formal wear business, has reportedly lost its ability to create buzz and excitement, according to advertising sources familiar with the story. With Black Gold now a partner of FLOW—a company that holds licenses with major brands and sells their products to major companies like Men’s Wearhouse, Jims and a dwindling number of independents, eWN has learned there will be little or no advertising dollars spent to promote their products, feeling the brands themselves are their own advertising and marketing machine.
Suggestions by Bridal, Prom and other advertising organizations, including Duhe continue to fall upon deaf ears. “If there were a web site sponsored by the tuxedo industry -- supported by formal wear manufacturers and rental specialists -- this would be the perfect place to collect and display all of the positive images about tuxedos. If there were an formal wear industry association that recognized the importance of positive images of formal wear in the media and knew how to develop promotions around them, the entire men's formal wear rental business would be growing rather than shrinking. However, we know that no such industry association exists. With Ken Pendly at the IFA, it's doubtful that anything like this ever will exist in the future.” Duhe, a strong, past supporter of the International Formal Wear Association, feels the organization is doomed for failure.
He adds, “At the same time, "industry leaders" like Brides Magazine, The Knot and others are convinced that men's formal wear isn't worth too much attention. Brides Magazine proudly exhibits its good taste by featuring business suits as wedding day attire in EACH AND EVERY issue. Following the leaders, the experts at The NY Times stated that wearing a tuxedo before 6PM is "tacky." NO ONE is willing to challenge Brides Magazine. NO ONE is willing to challenge The NY Times. I'm in a competitive position. I CAN'T challenge either without looking foolish.
Unfortunately, the people in the men's formal wear rental business (manufacturers and specialists) view themselves as purveyors of used clothing rather than men's formal wear experts. They don't have the balls to challenge anyone. Instead, they sit back and ask themselves "what can we do." This has been going on for years at the IFA. In spite of the fact that the American public has given evidence to show a preference to formal attire for weddings, the IFA would rather support Brides Magazine, The Knot, Martha Stewart -- anyone who comes along with negative statements about men's formal wear -- than challenge the negativity.
I'm exhausted from my efforts to help the men's formal wear business because even if you're on the right track, the train will ream your ass if you don't move and act on the ideas.” Duhe says he is more than willing to help the formal wear category in any way he can. But he also says, “God helps those that help themselves. The people who earn their living from the men's formal wear business should step up to the plate to save themselves. It's sad but true -- men's formal wear manufacturers and rental specialists can't find their asses with both their hands.”
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2010
Posted on 07/11/2010
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